Whilst I am on such a blogging role I might as well smash out a post about Turkey, my fourteenth country on this Euro-adventure and also my second continent (Turkey is a part of Asia, this was unintentional - I thought it was Europe.. Oops).
Well Turkey is geographically considered to be a part of Asia, although 3% of the country, 'Thrace', is said to be European; this includes Istanbul, Turkey's largest (but not capital as I believed) city. Although Istanbul is not officially the country's capital it is inarguably thought of as the capital of history and culture amongst Turkish people, with about 17 million of them calling the city itself home. Istanbul is like Bali on steroids. I got this impression straight away when my bus dumped me in the middle of the sprawling and congested city centre at 9pm without so much as a smile or a wave, nor a word of English. Luckily for me I have seen both Taken movies and therefore had my best solo backpacker wits about me and found where I was staying just forty five short minutes later.
I was in Turkey for about twelve days in total and feel very satisfied with how I filled that time, apart from my two days spent bedridden in Göreme with gastro, but more on that later (too much information...?). So, for my very first day in Istanbul I was itching to set out on foot and go and explore the Old Town, where all of the cities most iconic and stunning monuments can be found. I trekked it all the way there by my favourite calorie burning and free mode of transport: foot. Firstly though I had to navigate my way down Istanbul's busiest pedestrian street, Istiklal street, along which an approximately two million people walk every day. By the time I so much as reached the bridge to cross the Bosphorus River (the River which divides Turkey's European and Asian sides) I was sweating like a pig arriving at a butcher shop, having just been dragged across the Nullabor by a piece of rope attaching it to the back of the truck. Okay so I know that was probably the most longwinded attempt at a simile known to the English language but hopefully you get the point: I looked heinous. Girls: if you're like me and do not tolerate humidity do not take your boyfriend to Istanbul with you because he will see you for what you truly are... "Which is UGLAAAY" (okay She's The Man reference anybody? Any closest Amanda Bynes fans reading or is that also just me?).
Some houses in Istanbul.
A view of just a tiny part of the city.
Anyway, I looked like I had just taken a BO bath, a look complimented by my sun-striped hair sticking to my forehead and down my back, just like a painting. The situation was made all that much better when I reached my first destination, Süleymaniye Mosque, and was informed that out of respect to the Islamic faith I must don another full layer and remove my footwear, revealing my smelly witch feet (backpacker feet and witch feet become interchangeable after about three months) to every poor tourist and religious local alike. The case was the same when I visited the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia; and let me just add that even after several attempts I still have not mastered the art of donning a headscarf like a Muslim woman. I looked more like a batty dementia patient who had gotten dressed in the dark. Regardless, I am honoured to say that I was given the privilege of visiting such exquisite places of worship, even if parts of Hagia Sophia were under reconstruction (it's doing pretty well for a building that is largely 2,500 years old really). Due to Hagia Sophia's reconstruction however my photographs are not worth sharing as there is scaffolding in every picture, so even though it was a special place to be my photos are unable to relay this accurately. Google it.
Inside the Blue Mosque.
One thing to be aware of in Turkey (I personally found more than in most countries, though this is strictly a personal assertion) is tourist traps. I got gipped into a 'cruise' along the Bosphorus for a 'bargain' price of €10, the original price supposedly being €20. When I arrived at this boat I saw that it was more of a rickety wooden fishing vessel, upon which one could not stand should one wish to stay dry and keep their bones intact. I was stupidly convinced that I was given a 'last minute deal', but when I got there I saw that the guy in front of me had payed the same price. No doubt others probably got it cheaper.
On another one of my days exploring Istanbul I set off to trawl through the famed Grand Bazaar. I had to really contain myself as I was struggling to quash the urges to buy beautiful rugs, pillowcases and other decorative knick knacks for a home that I don't even have. Everything was just so intricate, so colourful, so eye catching, bright and bold. I did buy a little pair of loafers as well as a backpack though (which I LOVE) from a hilarious stall owner who I think I managed to charm into a good deal (almost 1/3 of the original price, which is what all locals say to aim for) simply by being Australian (I love it when that happens!). The stall owner, who spoke remarkable English, gave me his card and insisted that I tell my friends about his stall. So friends, when you all visit the Istanbul Grand Bazaar you must visit Dursun at Barbi Home.
Carrie Bradshaw moment at The Grand Bazaar.
Stuff, stuff and more stuff!
My mate Dursun.
A huge part of what motivated me to venture down to Turkey was the goal of embarking on the patriotic pilgrimage to Gallipoli to visit the place where our brave ANZAC heroes landed almost 100 years ago. For anybody who may not be Australian, our involvement in World War One is pivotal for many reasons, largely because it remains the most costly international conflict we have ever been involved in and because the war's end symbolised a break from Britain and the birth of a more sovereign nation, more ready to form it's own unique identity (although Australia had been a federation since 1901, Britain's influence was still largely evident hitherto). There are many, many day and overnight tours available to visit this part of Turkey, however these were all way out of my price range. I was conflicted; of course I wanted to pay my respects to the brave service men and women who sacrificed for our country but I was (and still remain!) on a budget. However, with some careful research and some polite but pushy emailing I managed to organise the trip myself, staying two nights in a single room in Çannakale and still paying less than others who would have booked a one night tour through any of the variety of companies offering this. I managed to strike a deal with a company called RSL Tours (http://www.rsltours.com) paying €25 for my Gallipoli tour, which allowed me to see: Kilitbahir Fortress, Turkish Canon Batteries, Brighton Beach, Beach Cemetery, ANZAC Cove, Ariburnu Cemetery, ANZAC Commemorative Site, Shell Green Cemetery, Respect to Mehmetcik Statue, Lone Pine Australian Memorial, Johnston's Jolly (Turkish and Allied trenches and tunnels), Turkish 57. Infantry Regiment Cemetery, The Nek and Chunuk Bair New Zealand Memorial. And I was fed lunch, so I thought I did alright. In hindsight I certainly do not regret spending the time and the money on something so significant to Australia.
Anzac Cove.
Your's truly.
The grave of Private John Simpson Fitzpatrick (Simpson and his Donkey).
The memorial at Lone Pine.
Lone Pine cemetery, the largest dedicated to Australian soldiers.
Whoever thought to see vegemite and cheese toasties at one of the busiest points along the way is a true business genius.
I decided to stick around Çannakale for two nights so that I could spend the following morning on a tour of Troy, offered by the same company. They charged me €25 for this as well, which was a bit of a rip off seeing as it was shorter and I did not get fed. Really I should have haggled for the price a bit more rather than half listening and agreeing, but shit happens I guess. Anyhow, though what remains of Troy is certainly no Roma it was a fascinating place to visit and learn about nonetheless, even if the story about the wooden horse is a little bit fluffy but hey, without it we would not have been able to see Brad Pitt frolicking about in a skirt. The day would have been completely splendid had a). My guide not been a complete knob head (he actually has a fairly knowledgeable tour guide, just an annoying person), and b). Mother Nature not decided to deliver a Turkey an enormous thunderstorm, resulting in my saturation when I had already checked out of my room and was about to board a six hour bus ride back to Istanbul. Once again, shit happens - usually to me evidently.
The walls leading into the city of Troy.
Ruins believed to once have been for both Greek and Roman sacrificial purposes.
An amphitheatre used by the Greeks and the Romans during their respective occupation of the city.
After another day in Istanbul I boarded yet another bus (a 12 hour overnight bus = hell on wheels, especially as the driver played a Turkish soap opera on the television throughout the entire night) to the centre of Turkey, a region best known as Cappadocia or 'The Land of the Beautiful Horses'. I went to Cappadocia with the intention (and fear of god) of riding a hot air balloon. This planned adventure was unfortunately delayed for two days due to my aforementioned bout of gastro. However, after a costly visit to the local doctor (who I had to wait until 4pm to see - not because he was too busy but because that's when he arrived at work) and four different types of tablets I was good to fly, waking up at 4:20am to see the sunrise from the sky. The experience was nothing short of magical, worth the hefty €120 price tag. Though I have a well documented fear of heights I felt surprisingly at ease floating 500m above land, even when I learnt that it was apparently the pilot's first flight and that the vessel was nicknamed 'Titanic'. I did not even flinch when the co-pilot began blaring Celine Dion's 'My Heart Will Go On' over the stereo. I went with Turkiye Balloons (http://www.turkiyeballoons.com) and have only praise for the entire experience.
Unforgettable.
As Cappadocia is a hub of natural wonderment like nothing I have ever seen before I decided to spend a bit of money in the area and take three of the many offered tours of the region. Usually I do not bother with tours unless they are a free walking tour, preferring to explore an area on my own. However, Cappadocia is so large, diverse and interesting that I really think I made the right decision in booking three in a row. I went with a company called 'Insider Travel Cappadocia' for two of these tours (unfortunately I cannot find the correct website for this agency) and New Göreme Tours for the third ( and was very satisfied with what I saw. I will only list, not describe, what I saw over the course of three days because my posts are lengthy enough, however I was genuinely fascinated and awestruck more times than I can count in regards to all of the unimaginable things Cappadocia has to offer. In no particular order my tours visited the: Göreme Open Air Museum, Cavusin Old Cave Village, Pasabag, Uchisar Castle, Devrent Valley, Fairy Chimneys, Derinkuyu Underground City, Ihlara Valley, Selime Monastery, Pigeon Valley, Göreme Panorama, Sobessos, Keslik Monastery, Mustafapasha as well as a local wine factory, onyx workshop, carpet workshop, pottery workshop. I paid €100 in total for the three tours and all included lunch and although my list is extensive I have still probably neglected to mention some parts. I really do advise googling any one of what is listed however and having a bit of a browse online but just be warned: doing so will evoke an strong desire to go to Turkey, even though you risk getting attacked by two separate camels (on the same bloody day) just like I did.
Me being tall next to an escape door used by Byzantine Christians to escape the Romans.
The Selime Monastery, all carved into volcanic rock.
Göreme Panorama.
A painting inside one of the churches in the Open Air Museum (you're not supposed to take photos, this was a sneaky effort).
Many of these rock carvings were lived in for many years.
Ruins of an old Roman city in the area.
Ihlara Valley.
Risking my life to climb across a rock less than thirty centimetres in width for a cool picture.
Some rocks that kinda look like phallasus.
I have thousands of more photos that I must sort out, this is just a small taste of my three days!
Before I wrap this post up I would like to do two quick plugs, the first of which goes to my hostel in Göreme, a lovely family owned business with some of the cheapest rooms I have ever come across and the most heartfelt and pleasant service. When I was sick the doctor called the man who owned the hostel and told him to boil some potatoes for me because I had not eaten in two days (I should note that the doctor initially told me he would ask for a cheese sandwich seeing as I do not like potato). When I returned to the hostel the man had potatoes ready to boil but when I explained to him that I regretfully really do not like potatoes he willingly made me what was to date the best cheese sandwich (or two...) of my life without uttering a word of disdain or complete (at least not one in English). As if such service was not enough he also gave me a bowl of watermelon to enjoy as dessert, all free of charge. The hostel was called 'Köse Pension', and can be contacted via email at dawn@kosepension.com.
My second plug goes out to the awesome German jeweller lady at a shop called 'Orient Bazaar' (mehmetdilari@hotmail.com) who sold me three silver rings and an awesome crystal pendant on a silver chain for around $50. The lady makes all of the jewellery on her own by hand and her work is phenomenal. She was not pushy in her sales at all, even talking me out of the purchase of an extra ring that made me "look like a Christmas tree".
Essentially, if I have not emphasised the point enough already, Turkey is mind blowing and completely unlike anything I have ever seen or experienced. Definitely a country to add to the bucket list!
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